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When trying to open fuel door(usually have to pull the switch several times and even pry the door a bit), all doors unlocked. I locked them back via the central locks(window switches have recently gone out) and managed to get fuel door open. After coming out of the station I entered the car and tried to crank, flashers popped on and car wouldn't crank. No alarm sounds, just flashers. I've tried many things from pulling battery terminals, holding them together to reset the system(did nothing), locking and unlocking and leaving the key in ignition for 30 minutes. When I unlock driver door with key, it's the only door that responds.
Central locks don't work anymore either. I've heard things about pulling relays and 'jumping' them, but I am not familiar with this technique nor have I been able to locate said relays. My parents encountered this problem with the same car but were able to cure simply by locking/unlocking doors or leaving key in ignition for 30 minutes. Any help is much appreciated. Thanks in advance. Welcome to MVS. Normally just locking and unlocking the doors will reset things.
Have you tried unlocking and locking the trunk? The trunk latch can cause all kinds of alarm grief. Push comes to shove remove relay 210/211. It is located high on the firewall on the inside of the car - more or less above the brake pedal and directly below the fuse box that is under the hood.
You will need to remove the three T-25 torx screws that hold the lower dash panel in place to get to the lower electrical unit. Once the relay is removed you need to install a jumper wire between the socket positions associated with pins 50E and 50F on the 210 side of the relay. The pin numbers are molded into the bottom of the relay. This will not fix your central locking problem but it will allow the car to start again and get you back on the road.Lee. Ozark Lee wrote:Welcome to MVS.
Normally just locking and unlocking the doors will reset things. Have you tried unlocking and locking the trunk? The trunk latch can cause all kinds of alarm grief. Push comes to shove remove relay 210/211. It is located high on the firewall on the inside of the car - more or less above the brake pedal and directly below the fuse box that is under the hood.
You will need to remove the three T-25 torx screws that hold the lower dash panel in place to get to the lower electrical unit. Once the relay is removed you need to install a jumper wire between the socket positions associated with pins 50E and 50F on the 210 side of the relay. The pin numbers are molded into the bottom of the relay. This will not fix your central locking problem but it will allow the car to start again and get you back on the road.Lee Hey, Lee - Sounds like you're describing an 850 system. OP's sig indicates a '98 V70.
Everything is different. The alarm and central locking share module 2/76. It's hiding in the dash to the left of the steering column. Information about wiring and component locations can be found here: It may be the module, but I'd walk through some basics first. Are you having any other strange electrical problems? Dead battery issues?
Any starting problems? Is your system voltage up where it should be? Do all the 'door open' switches work correctly? 'Key in ignition' sensor? Hood latch sensor? Tailgate latch sensor? How do I get into the dash to this module?
Other than the windows failing on the driver side panel and the fact that the fuel door button unlocked my car and relocking via driver central lock set off security system, nothing odd. The car obviously does not start, due to security.
Battery is fine at the moment, don't know how to check system voltage, switches or sensors. Also it's relay spaces 5, 6, 7, 9, 10, 11, 14 and 15 that are empty.
Is it due to year/model that I have no 210/211 relay? Is there an equivalent? Or is that the 2/76 module that BEJin mentioned? If you haven't got a handle on electrical, getting to the module isn't gonna help.
Start with the basics. Search and read up on how to test an electrical system. There are numerous posts on this site. Search 'Voltage Drop', 'Test Alternator', etc. Then, either get a meter out and check some of those systems or head down to a parts store that will check your battery, alternator and charging system at no charge. But I Strongly recommend having a good start on how all that stuff works first.
All kinds of weird stuff starts to happen when voltage gets wonky. It'll still start and run way beyond the threshold of minor weirdness, but all manner of things can happen before it finally goes down completely. If you plan to work on your own car, especially anything with lots of electronics, having a good footing in the basic electrical/charging system is critical. The 850 series is the '93-'97 line that the 70 series is based on. The '98 70's are pretty much the same car with a major facelift. Many of the electrical systems are the same, but the keyless central locking and alarm systems changed quite a bit with the introduction of the 70's series cars. It all got condensed into one place.
Like many electronics issues, check the power supply first. You may save yourself a lot of tail chasing. I know the battery is fine, I bought it new a few months back, only issue with that would be the flashers draining it but I've had the battery disconnected. The car wont start at all, due to security system, thus I cant get it to a store/shop. Everything was fine to begin with, problems only came when the fuel door button unlocked the car.
I'm 95% sure that this is strictly an electrical/security malfunction. The driver side window failed then a week or two later, this happened and as stated, I relocked the car via driver central locks, apparently setting off security lockout.
It all seems fairly contained, then again, I'm no expert. Any idea about the missing relays? Just because you think the battery is OK doesn't mean it's OK. A bad charging system will drain a new battery in no time flat.
You may have some sort of current draw problem causing it. You may have broken wires in the door jamb harness. It's hard to tell from this far away. But missing relays don't cause problems like this.
And low voltage causes confused electronics. Always Confirm Power First - Ask me how I know.
Except the windows.That one's easy! These cars just have lousy window switches. Address that here. I recently took the battery to be checked, thinking that might be the issue. Everything was fine and it was only slightly drained due to flashers and nothing to recharge it. As far as the rest of the power system, I have no idea as I don't have the money to tow the car anywhere.
Thank you though for the window switch link, I'm gonna try that now before anything else seeing as all of this seemed to be caused through the driver door controls. Maybe I can at least get the window back up. Thanks for all your help so far!
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Forum owners such as us are finding that AOL, Yahoo and Plus.net are blocking a lot of email generated from forums. This may mean your registration activation and other emails will not get to you, or they may appear in your spam mailbox Thread Informations Drivers Door Module(DDM) Views: 13448 Replies: 36 Users Viewing This Thread. If you've ever wondered what's inside your drivers door module, wonder no more.
Mine failed, drivers door wouldn't lock, couldn't fold or adjust the mirror, window wouldn't open or close. Connected VIDA/DICE to the car, tried activating the mirror and window, nothing. Read the fault codes DDM internal fault. Took it apart, spotted a small area near the power relay that had what looked like fluid stains and a white residue all over it. Hit it with some electrical cleaning spray and a soft brush, bingo! Works perfectly now. I have some problem with my Volvo XC90 T6 (2003) driver`s door.
So the window does not works, the door does not locking by the remote control ( just manual) and I can not to control the driver`s side mirror. All passenger side (front and rear) door, windows, mirror work from the driver`s side controller. I was checking the the fuse, it is OK. I can hear when clicked the relay.
I was cleaning the plugs with contact cleaner unfortunately did not happen anything. What else would be the problem? Thanks the answers. I have some problem with my Volvo XC90 T6 (2003) driver`s door.
So the window does not works, the door does not locking by the remote control ( just manual) and I can not to control the driver`s side mirror. All passenger side (front and rear) door, windows, mirror work from the driver`s side controller. I was checking the the fuse, it is OK.
I can hear when clicked the relay. I was cleaning the plugs with contact cleaner unfortunately did not happen anything. What else would be the problem? Thanks the answers. I have some problem with my Volvo XC90 T6 (2003) driver`s door. So the window does not works, the door does not locking by the remote control ( just manual) and I can not to control the driver`s side mirror. All passenger side (front and rear) door, windows, mirror work from the driver`s side controller.
I was checking the the fuse, it is OK. I can hear when clicked the relay. I was cleaning the plugs with contact cleaner unfortunately did not happen anything. What else would be the problem?
Thanks the answers. Sorry for the late reply but I'd say you have the same issue as myself, a faulty door module. Second hand replacement is the easiest fix, just make sure the part numbers match.